Amritsar - pool of nectar

The next morning we grabbed an auto rickshaw for the 20 minute ride to the Golden Temple. Our ride cost about $.50 and the driver’s worked so hard, I felt bad for him. At one point we had to get off and walk for a few minutes up a steep hill, but it was an enjoyable and a breezy ride. Once in the thick of it, we began getting hustled to buy every cheap souvenir under the sun (most looked like they were made in China), we declined, but bought Joe an orange head covering so that he didn’t have to wear a used one, as it is mandatory to cover one’s head while in the temple.

We followed the rules and dropped off our shoes, washed our hands and then dipped our feet into the cleansing pool before being allowed to enter the great hall. Much like the Taj, the largess of the Golden Temple hits you in waves as you enter. The holiest of places for the Sikh religion, the temple is surrounded by water that catches the glimmer of the vast amounts of gold used in its creation. The site began construction in the late 1400’s and the temple was completed in the early 1600’s. Sadly this site has been plagued by much unrest due to the conflicts with the Muslims of India who continued to attack and destroy the temple. From 1767 onwards, the Sikh military became large enough to dissuade the invaders from the invasive acts. The architecture of the temple is both Hindu and Muslim, intertwining the two to create its own unique style.

In early June of 1984, in response to Sikh separatists who allegedly were accumulating weapons in the Golden temple, Prime Minister Indira Ghandi ordered “Operation Blue Star” which led the Indian military into the temple with troops, tanks and armoured vehicles. The mission was successful in the eyes of the military (although ranks in the top 10 political disgraces by India today magazine), but was responsible for as many as 1500 unnecessary civilian death as well as the death of 83 soldiers in the Indian army. It caused a huge uproar in the Sikh community worldwide, causing many Sikhs to quit the Indian military career and many handed back awards previously received. Many Vancouverites may remember the Air India bombing that killed 331 people (329 over Ireland and two baggage handlers in Narita, Japan), which was a scare tactic aimed at the Indian Government and allegedly was not meant to actually harm anyone, sadly. The Operation also led to the assassination of Indira four months after by two of her Sikh bodyguards.

All in all, our trip to the temple was amazing and very moving. We dipped our feet into the holy nectar water that surrounds the temple as many people openly bathed in it and joined the long queue for our turn to pay our respects inside. Admission into the temple is free, although the majority of the attendees appeared to be Sikh. We sat down inside the temple balcony and enjoyed the emotions surrounding it. We declined the free food, but took many photos around the outside of the temple (no photos inside) and made our financial contribution. I was given an orange sheet wrapped tightly around some salt crystals or crackers, and am still not sure what I was supposed to do with it! We really enjoyed our long awaited visit and look forward to returning home to share with our adventures with our Indian friends.

We spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying quiet time at the hotel. The next afternoon we ventured out to an Italian restaurant for bad food and a walk around the city. I have taken to stealing hard boiled eggs from our buffet breakfast and feeding them to the stray dogs that look like they needed them the most. The dogs were a bit surprise, but very happy recipients. For a country who thinks so highly of their cows, they think nothing of treating dogs like they’re disposable and this is very disheartening.

Once I’d finished handing out eggs, Joe and I decided to stroll the surrounding neighbourhood that was filled with playing children and the regular excitement. Not even ten minutes into our walk, I was egged by a passing car leaving spots on my pants, shirt and hand. I felt like I was in a religious neighbourhood wearing a bikini, when in fact I was modestly clothed and minding my own business. A local graciously offered me her sink, but didn’t really have any comforting words considering her English seemed fine to me. In shock, we got on the next rickshaw and headed to our hotel for refuge. I saw the irony, but not the humour in giving and receiving eggs, although I don’t think the two incidences were at all related.