After our night of partying, we took a much need sleep in and hang out in our room until checkout at noon. Nanu picked us up for our last view of Agra and a stop at Itimad-ud-Daulah's Tomb unofficially known as 'baby Taj' which was sadly not as amazing or spectacular as the real thing. Although it was virtually empty and provided a beautiful view of the river (if not dirty!).
While enjoying the river, we met a German guy in his mid twenties who was backpacking through India for seven weeks. He seemed to look down on us when we said we had a bit of an organized tour and were paying around $35/night for a hotel. Apparently, he has been paying around $3-$5/night. He also said how he had purchased some material and had it sewn together and this is what he sleeps in over his sheets and pillow since his rooms are less than desirable! He also mentioned that on occasion there is no toilet and only a hole in the floor to do his business. We did not feel bad to be enjoying the pool and our included breakfasts! We also drove to the back side of the Taj to take more pictures as the guide books recommended. Unfortunately, the river had receded and the pictures weren’t really that impressive so we moved on!
While enjoying the river, we met a German guy in his mid twenties who was backpacking through India for seven weeks. He seemed to look down on us when we said we had a bit of an organized tour and were paying around $35/night for a hotel. Apparently, he has been paying around $3-$5/night. He also said how he had purchased some material and had it sewn together and this is what he sleeps in over his sheets and pillow since his rooms are less than desirable! He also mentioned that on occasion there is no toilet and only a hole in the floor to do his business. We did not feel bad to be enjoying the pool and our included breakfasts! We also drove to the back side of the Taj to take more pictures as the guide books recommended. Unfortunately, the river had receded and the pictures weren’t really that impressive so we moved on!
After the Tajs’, it was time to say goodbye to our friend and faithful driver Nanu. We have grown accustomed to his speedy service, friendly wave and insistence on opening our doors despite how many times we told him it wasn’t necessary! We boarded our overnight train to Amritsar and met our two Indian roommates. Since we were in a higher class room, we ended up meeting a dentist and doctor from India. We engaged in a really interesting conversation on prices and government vs. private medicare. The dentist was shocked that people pay $1000 for a crown, but on the other hand dentists in Canada pay more rent, more for staffing, supplies, etc.
By 8pm, the Dr.’s had debarked and we were joined by Michelle (from Aus) and her boyfriend Jim (from New Zealand). After the usual travel chit chat, we all took to our bunks for a good night’s sleep (haha). 8am and we arrived on time like newborn chicks, no Nanu and a city to explore! Our new friends Jim and Michelle were only in Amritsar for one day, so we made plans to meet with them later that afternoon for the Wagah border crossing while they proceeded to the Golden Temple and we went to our room for some serious relaxing!
By 8pm, the Dr.’s had debarked and we were joined by Michelle (from Aus) and her boyfriend Jim (from New Zealand). After the usual travel chit chat, we all took to our bunks for a good night’s sleep (haha). 8am and we arrived on time like newborn chicks, no Nanu and a city to explore! Our new friends Jim and Michelle were only in Amritsar for one day, so we made plans to meet with them later that afternoon for the Wagah border crossing while they proceeded to the Golden Temple and we went to our room for some serious relaxing!
We met Jim and Michelle at 3pm and spent 30 minutes haggling for a taxi outside our hotel. Thankfully Michelle was an expert bargainer and managed to knock 500 rupees off the original price quoted and so we set out for the border (about 40 minutes away). The Wagah border lowering of the flags ceremony is a tradition carried out by Pakistan and India since 1959 at the only border crossing left open (until 1999) between the two countries who frequently don’t see get along.
Since we had our passports, we were whisked to the VIP security/border line up and given front section seats along with the other tourist and a few locals. The Indian side of the border filled up quickly with women in bright coloured sari’s and children laughing with expectation. The Pakistani side was much less busy and men and women were segregated into different sections. The Indian side began running their flags back and forth to the border and flashing their overzealous national. Women were lining up to wave that flag, then there was the dancing and singing by locals, Pakistani side was quiet. The ceremony began at sundown with a choreographed routine, a leader yelling out commands and soldiers marching to and fro in an organized fashion. It was very entertaining and well done; full of military flare and patriotic passion.
We finished off our evening together at dinner at the shi shi Crystal in the heart of Amritsar. Interestingly, there are two Crystal restaurants side by side, having divided due to a family dispute. I’ve attached a picture of their entrance sign saying that they do not have a second branch!! They both beckon you to come to their restaurant when you approach the side by side doors, we chose the one on the right, but rumour has it that they are both good. I ordered my butter chicken in the Punjab (so exciting) as well as everyone else picked a dish to share. The food was delicious, but the quality of meat at home is much better and we would have done just as well to head to Surrey!
We also ordered a steaming brownie to share per couple and they came out full of hot steam and oozing fudge. Totally amazing!! Michelle and Jim had a night bus to catch back to Delhi, so we said our goodbyes having immensely enjoyed their company.
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