Caye Caulker, Belize

After only a few short days we had to leave Guatemala. But as the guide book says, we are contemplating our next trip back! We left at 6am on a bus that was a half hour late. Our bus, turned out to be a van with really tight seating. We made it to the border in an hour, half the original time it took us to get there. As usual the border crossing was a blast. Business as usual, pay the man and you're in. I call it an expensive stamp fee as opposed to an "entrance/exit" tax. Our passports are looking good!

Once over the border, we had to wait for two people who were taking FOREVER (apparently they were importing computer goods). While we waited, we enjoyed dinner (lunch) and a show. Everyone was quite hungry and so we walked over to some road side restaurants and grabbed a few burritos. Joe and I bought four and a pop for $5! Delicious homemade burritos, bread and all! After we got our food Joe thought it would be funny to shout out "hey, there goes our bus!" Everyone turned to the window in panic; he thought it was hilarious. We returned to our bus only to find the French woman fighting with our bus driver. Understanding no Spanish, we relied on others to fill us in. She continued to yell and moan sometime before we fully figured it out. Apparently she wasn't happy about our luxury bus. She had wanted the front seat of the van and the driver told her no because it was filled with lots of stuff. She was really yelling about it, it cracked me up!

We took the bus into Belize City and missed our ferry to the island by five minutes. We decided to walk around the dreaded Belize City for 1.5 hours. Although there were many beggars we found it to be fairly safe for our brief shopping expedition! The city has a bad reputation.

We boarded our ferry moments before the down pour of rain. Four people were sitting uncovered and got soaked, but it is so stinking humid, they appeared to be enjoying themselves! We finally made it to Caye Caulker, a popular backpacking island off Belize City. We followed a local who got us settled into a hotel with air conditioning and TV. Joe was pleased! We set out to explore the island on foot finding many tourist shops and activities. After a lovely dinner of seafood, we retired early to our wonderfully cool room.

The next day we opted to relax with a leisurely breakfast at Café Amore, followed by some light shopping. Then we enjoyed a nice swim in the ocean at the “split” casually known as the swimming hot spot. The island was originally one big one but is now “split” in two due to a large hurricane long ago. We enjoyed Chinese food for lunch which was surprisingly good, before a quiet siesta in our room. Later in the afternoon we explored the island finding a beautiful wedding and a lot of houses for sale. Not cheap though! Some were going for $195,000 US and didn't appear to be THAT nice. Still this place is crawling with American tourists, many fat ones, in their rented golf carts! The island is only 8.5 km long and 1.2 km long. Easily walk able! We discovered many sand crabs that hide all over the island. They’re kind of creepy. We were going to stop in for a massage, but at US$70, we decided to wait till we got home!

The island is truly a paradise, with many ocean activities to do. Very close to the island is the world famous “the blue hole” for any diving aficionados. We never had the chance to get certified, so we bypassed this activity, opting for long walks on the beach with ice cream cones instead!

We have enjoyed our time in Belize tremendously, but must head back to Mexico for Liam and Maggie’s wedding!

Tikal, Guatemala

We arose very early to catch our bus tour to Tikal. It is one of the largest pre-Columbian Maya civilizations and also the most popular in Guatemala. It is found in a jungle like setting inhabited by lots of wildlife.

We joined fellow English speakers on a lengthy tour of the property. Our guide, a 21 year veteran of the park gave us the full low down on the Mayans, their evolution and transformation and disappearance. Apparently the original ancestors had cone shaped heads and long ear lobes. They walked up the long staircases sideways so as to always watch what their underlings were doing. The sites were incredibly well built and preserved, although its people have long since disappeared. The monuments, themselves were only built to be used as ceremonial structures, to impress others when they entered the village. They were never used for burials like the Egyptian pyramids. The archeological sites are not impossible to have built since the stones are relatively small and could be carried one at a time. It was thought that the Mayans carried them on their backs and continued doing so, even with their knowledge of the wheel.

One of the odd things about the original people is that they disappeared, but no one can trace exactly where they went or what happened to them. Perhaps they only built the structures for us to better understand them; perhaps they all died of a huge epidemic. It is a fascinating mystery!!

Now the question we’ve all been waiting for: Will the world end on December 21, 2012? According to the man on the island and our tour guide: NO! On the other hand they both believe that the world will change and everyone will get sick, with a possible flooding (Maybe: Noah’s ark)?! No one can find food, etc. So don’t forget to enjoy your loved ones!

Five hours later we headed to the van home only to be audience to a tour kafuffle. Four girls who had joined our tour through another guide had apparently given their previous tour guide their ticket. Even though they had been on our tour for four hours and had been instructed to join it by a colleague of our guide, he was refusing to let them on the shuttle home. He was somewhat nasty about it and we felt sorry for them. They ended up paying for the bus home ($5), but they were not happy about it! Being a tourist can really stink sometimes and we felt their pain!

The rest of our evening was spent shopping (our fave) and dinner overlooking the sunset. The restaurants here are so lovely, with open patios and lots of food. I even befriended the owner’s cat who was really cute. I find that in Guatemala that their animals are treated a lot better here. I even saw a pet store in Flores.

We were sad to spend our last night in an air conditioned room, but knew it was time to move on!

25 at 25! Flores, Guatemala!!

We boated to the mainland shortly after breakfast and took the first bus to Belmopan, the capital of Belize. From there, we took a bus close to the border of Guatemala, then took a taxi the rest of the way. We cleared Belizean customs in moments after we were forced to pay US$18 to leave. Apparently we will have to pay again on our way back through. No double entry for this country. I understand, us westerners are supposed to be rich and all, but $40 here, $10 there still adds up. Its as though they think the money is endless.

We had numerous people harassing us to change currency at god knows what exchange rate. We ignored all of them and made it to the first bank machine. It is fun to be back in a Spanish country after our time in Belize. People are definitely poorer here and the men stare and whistle at me. I guess white legs are more exciting than the brown ones everywhere. Their women were dressed in short skirts too! Some people are wearing pants, but the heat is unbearable!

We took a collectivo bus to Flores, a small city off a peninsula of Santa Elena. Our collective was a small van with many people stuffed in. Everyone just hops on and off as needed and pays the man in charge. I don’t think many people here can afford cars (especially those who live out in the valleys). This bus is a nice alternative. Sort of. It took about two hours of windy roads and speed bumps, stops and chattings with friends. Our driver was waving at everyone! I saw women carrying water baskets on their heads and children carrying wood on their backs. Everyone seemed to be going somewhere.

We arrived in Santa Elena and took a tuk tuk into Flores. Totally cool, these three legged vehicles are motorbikes with a little seat on the back . Pictures are cute! Flores is so picture perfect. Surrounding a lake, our hotel had a beautiful balcony to sit and watch the sunset. We opted for dinner over looking the lake. Fresh chicken and pasta! We celebrated my twenty fifth country at 25 years of age!! I will make it into the 100 countries club!

On another note, the animals seem better treated here, and happier. I still want to take them all home!

We enjoyed english television and air conditioning in our hotel, while we had our laundry done!

The next day was spent roaming the city exploring cute stores and checking out the neighborhood. We enjoyed a delicious breakfast of eggs and toast, Joe had some interesting pancakes with jam before exploring. Everyone stares at you while you look around. We are a spectacle! I secretly snapped their photos (so I guess all is fair...)

After lunch we took a short boat ride over to an island off the peninsula. It is called Radio Peten, I believe. There, this man takes you on a tour of his family´s museum. He actally let us touch 4000 year old artifacts from the mayans. He collects, and puts back together ancient artifacts that he has collected. Some donated. It was a really unique experience. He showed us fake teeth from a skull that had fools gold and jade encrusted in them, several whistles and bowls used for various rituals. It was a highly unusual museum, which we thoroughly enjoyed! We had a late dinner before hiding in our room from the relentless heat!

Tobbacco Caye - day two

Another day in tropical paradise! After breakfast we saw four of our friends off to the mainland and spent some time in the hammocks before a little dip in the ocean. Its funny, you take a swim and you’re practically dry in 15 minutes (hair and all). On another note, my hair is so full of salt, I don’t even recognize its original silkiness; I am in desperate need of a spa treatment.

After lunch, Joe and I took a boat ride with one of the hotel guys (aka boyfriend of our cook). He took us back to his house on a nearby island where we got to meet his brother (a boat mechanic), his three giant hogs and to see where he lives. The island was mostly covered in mangroves and was somewhat disgusting. He is using his island as a garbage dump site to increase its size by covering the garbage in sand. Basically he is using garbage as a cheap fill. I won’t even describe the hogs except to say: I am GLAD I don’t eat pork anymore!

And just my luck his dog had just had three puppies and I got to pet and play with them!! A long haired brown, and two shorthaired black and brown, they were so cute. There are dogs everywhere in Belize and Mexico. Some of them looking dirty and lonely. I wanted to take them all home and bathe and feed them. It is hard to understand why they don’t do more for their pets, but I guess when people are so poor...

Next he took us by ¨bird¨ Island, which has been completely taken over by birds. He said you can only sit in your boat for about 15 minutes before they start to come after you. It was crazy, tons of birds flying overhead (I have some good pictures). The water is so beautiful here and not very deep next to the islands, you can jump in for a swim. He took us by another island that was split in three from a past hurricane. It used to have one owner and now there are three. I don’t think there is much organized real estate on the islands as our guide told us that once you have lived on an island for a certain period of time, you can call it yours. I have to say that I prefer the mainland!

He also pointed out a boat that looked relatively new. He said that drug lords use these boats to transport large amounts of drugs and then abandon the boats once they are done. Locals and police have begun claiming them as their own!!

Along our route home, we were joined by four mating dolphins that were leaping out of the air in pairs. It was really neat to see them in their natural habitat. Apparently they are usually quite friendly, but not during mating season, so we just carried on!

We enjoyed our last night on the Caye walking around with our adopted children and playing crib with an American couple. We have enjoyed our stay here, but are looking forward to our next adventure!

Tobbacco Caye - day one

Tobacco caye started out as a sand bar and one day some fishermen came along and plantesome coconut trees and the rest is history! It is one of the only sand islands in the area, most are covered in mangroves and aren’t as nice to live on. It is also purely owned by Belizeans and many people use it as a resort destination from the main land!

We arrived on this little out of the way island that is growing in popularity every year! The ocean is a clear teal colour and you can see straight to the bottom. The different shades of blues colliding into one another, is as relaxing as it is passionate. Honestly, it is breath taking. Everything you would expect from a tropical paradise. We settled in at Lana’s, a little guest house with four rooms. Thankfully ours had two double beds and our own bathroom. Unfortunately sand tracks in everywhere and you never quite get that clean feeling! I won’t describe the bathroom and shower, only to say that it is our own, if that is any consolation! We miss Canada’s bathrooms!

We had had such a long tiring day on the bus that I insisted we take a dip in the ocean and that I did. Heavenly! At 5pm to still be able to swim and enjoy the cool water really takes care of the heat at least temporarily. The bottom is mostly rocky, but we found a few sandy places and waded in. Our meals were included with accommodation and we were all too happy to eat at 6pm!! Meals ranged from fried breaded fish and rice to chicken and fries, all homemade. A few vegetables here and there, but we wished for more! Breakfasts were interesting, with fried jacks (Belizean pancakes), eggs, meat and fresh pineapple. Our cook was the fill in so we where just happy we got to eat! I believe that fried food is everywhere and we are getting a little bored. One night our rice had ground fresh pieces of coconut cooked in, from our very own coconut trees! Delish!

Our first day was spent snorkelling right off our island, which boasts a very impressive reef! We saw giant sting rays with long tails swishing about. Hundreds of tropical fish in schools and solo; purples, reds, yellows, greens and blues, the fish are incredible. I also saw an ugly lobster looking creature scuttling the bottom, as well as an unusual white fish that swims on its side with one eye up. Fabulous! We stopped for breaks and some hammock time. There is no need to work very hard here! Meal time was a big excitement!

We met a few locals on the island, one couple in particular. He was born in Belize, moved to Washington, DC at 18, lived in Vegas and DC for 30 plus years before deciding he had to return to Belize to retire on this island. He left his marriage and all for the quiet life. He has since remarried a Belizean woman who sells dresses that she hand makes on the island. She gave us an earful on tourists and their bad behaviour. One man almost got chopped up by a passing boat because he was outside the buoy designated to keep swimmers safe. She also recounted a story about a young girl who got overly drunk and didn’t go home with her friends and ended up being raped and killed on her way home from the bar. The man is now in jail for life, but she acted as though the girl shouldn’t have behaved so recklessly. Seemed a bit harsh.

The island has suffered some from hurricanes, although they have done better than others. She told us of a story from her daughter who works at the international airport: Allegedly during one such hurricane, all of Belize was praying to god that they wouldn’t be torn to shreds and many tourists at the airport were trying to come and vacation on the islands. She thought they were crazy! They had no understanding of 160 miles per hour winds. Luckily the hurricane bypassed them and headed towards Honduras (well lucky for Belize).

She also told us about the history of Belize and how Canada has helped them a lot in building bridges, sanitary lines and fresh water to the houses. Go Canada!! Like Canada, they are also a British colony that gained their independence in 1981 (I believe we were 1982 or the other way around).

Although most people here spend a lot of time chilling, their lives don’t seem too strenuous and many seem to have cell phones and nice cars. Definitely anyone in contact with the tourists are doing ok!

We fell in love with the two children of our cook, Grace. Shania, 5, and Chris (aka Spider Monkey), 3. Totally adorable, they were using their looks for the starbursts that Joe was liberally handing out! They would lay with me on the hammocks, climb all over us, follow us around the island and were basically really cute and fun! They are the two youngest of 9 children and their mom is only 42 years old.

The evening was spent drinking Belizean rum with fresh coconut juice directly from the coconut. We are definitely living the island life! That night, one of our hosts took us up a cat walk to see the stars. They were so close, you could almost reach up and pocket one! We saw the Milky Way and what we believed to be a couple of planets as they were bright and shining harder than the rest! Unbelievable, definitely something you can’t see in Vancouver.

We spent the rest of the evening fishing (with our favourite North Carolina couple) off our dock. I believe we all went to bed around 9pm as it gets dark at about 7. Not a late nighter kinda place, but the bar is hopping from mid afternoon!! Pina colada anyone?

Belize it!

We headed for the border at day break on a cushy Mexican bus. We followed a Spanish woman who was traveling with her mom and sister. I was panicking about making the bus and she was casual and kept me under control! A Mexican minute can seem like 10! She has been living in Cancun for over two years and was joined by her family for a trip through Central America. Very friendly and helpful. A pleasure to meet!

A helpful hint to fellow travelers: people are watching you and how you represent your Country when you are abroad. I will not mention any particular Countries only to say that I was attempting to use my second language with a group of eight travelers and they were somewhat rude. Looked at me like I had grown another head and slowly moved away. My grammer isn´t THAT bad!!

We cleared customs in Belize easily and I rejoiced in the English language. For those of you unaware, Belize´s National language is English, although it is pronounced with a Jamaican like accent. Most people speake English, Spanish and Creole (a lazy man´s english). Apparently Bob Marley is very big here as are the other Carribean singers, i.e. Rihanna. Nina-There are dreads everywhere here!

We crossed over the border to a lot of greenery. We followed the cost down the country enjoying the view of colourful laundry flapping in the breeze to palm trees and fields of grass and sugar cane. Everything is so vibrant here. Houses of peach and teal, yellow and green, rows upon rows. Plenty to keep the eyes entertained.

We made it to Belize City without a hitch. The sun is shining and so are the faces of the locals. With their big hellos and friendly personalities. Everyone was very helpful when we looked lost and their accents are adorable! I was offered a personal tour of one man´s home town until I mentioned I was married! They seemed to like my rosy cheeks that are always RED because it is so hot here. 32 degrees with high humidity is too hot for me!

In Belize City, we boarded another bus for Dangriga. After beeing spoiled with the Mexican greyhound-like buses, we changed pace and boarded the Belizian bus which is a very used, old American school bus painted blue. Joe would like me to add that they were in much need of maintenance. Every creak and noise, he would lean over and tell me what that sound indicated and what should be fixed! Plus the driver thought he was racing in the grand prix, occasionally swerving in and out of traffic and taking quick turns. It was an adventure!!

We made in to Dangriga in one piece and were pleased to see the ocean so close. This city is quite small and lovely, home to many Garifuna´s or pure African decendants. Others are half African and half English/Scottish and the rest being made up of Mayans. Quite a diverse Country!

We headed out to the docks to catch a boat to Tobacco Caye, a little Island off the cost (in the middle) of Belize. Along the way, we met a young English couple who had been traveling for just over a week together (he was staying longer). We shared stories of travel and ended up staying at the same hostel on the island.

Our boat ride over to the island was somewhat traumatic. Our tiny boat flew over the giant waves until we came crashing down on our hard seats. Joe was at the front, holding on for dear life. We didn´t realize that US$18 would get you such a ride. We were happy to be on solid ground 35 minutes later.

A small complaint about Mexico AND Belize. We´re not all Americans and we don´t want to use their currency. Everywhere we go, they quote us in US $, as if people from all around the world (who are white) naturally have it on hand. We were somewhat forwarned, but I didn´t realize it was that bad. On the other hand, it has been very convenient at border crossings, when we didn´t have the local currency yet!

More on the Island to follow....

Playa and the road

Up around 10, we went to explore the town in the light. We found it much to be the same as the previous evening except busier and hotter! The Mexicans are so push giving all of the typical phrases, ¨come and look¨, ¨come buy something you dont really need.¨ They really want you to bargain. I bought a beautiful dress for Liam´s wedding that was hand made in Cancun under a free trade, but it was similarly priced to stuff at home! Still I love it. Apparently all of the jewellery is hand made on the spot right there. Everything is hand made, even things that dont look hand made. They get a bit pissy if you walk away once you´ve begun bargaining, but this is standard.

We havent seen to much poverty yet and I am actually surprised and how many fat Mexicans there are. I mean REALLY fat. I almost felt like we were home!

We also found the Mexicans to be very helpful. Telling you where things are and showing you around if you look lost. Everyone is always say ¨Ola¨ and ¨Buenos Noches¨! After touring around for three or so hours we had lunch an obscure restaurant off the strip. The food was fabulous!! Warm little tortillas and more meat with onions, plus their home made salsa. We ate so much and it was still relatively cheap.

We boarded a bus for Chetumal at 3pm and arrived just after 8pm. The bus was fabulous and comfy with a bathroom and all. I naped and Joe watched Spanish movies. People where along the roadside selling delicious looking pineapples and papayas, but we couldn´t stop. We also drove by an abandoned school bus that someone had put on stilts and had a staircase leading up. Looked like a fancy apartment!

We are currently in Chetumal at a hotel (which is a huge step up from last night)! Very little English is spoken, but everyone is super helpful and will write things down or point!

We head for the Belizien border at 6am tomorrow!!