In transit - Mexico

WE´RE HERE!!!!

(Please excuse the punctuation, I cant find all the buttons!) Yesterday was a long day of endless travel. We flew to Dallas at 8:45am, then on to Cancun. AA was a painless airline with very friendly staff, love those southerners! I sat next to a very nice American gal from Illinois who actually still supports Bush. Wow, they re out there! She was also very impressed with Joe saying, ¨I never knew there were Canadian farmers.¨ We had a good laugh!

As we were approaching Cancun, the flight attendant gave us some instructions on the customs forms. She said ¨on the back of the form there is a foreigner box, YOU are the foreigner, sign your name here.¨ Then in politically correct fashion she said ¨If you make a mistake, cross it out, they don`t care, they just want your money¨then she added ¨and your fun¨ in an awkward and gramatically incorrect ending! Lol, I thought it was hilarious. Do travelers frequently get confused and think that Mexico is their homeland?

We arrived at 7:45pm with no plans and decided to catch a bus to Playa del Carmen about 2 hours away. We must have walked through 40 people in blue shirts trying to sell us packages. Like sharks. We arrived in TOURIST TOWN. Nina-it was like a cheapened Dahab (in Egypt). McDonald´s everywhere, cheap souvenirs and expensive everything. We opted to stay at some hostel just off the main strip that left much to be desired! Our ¨private room¨ was literaly a queen size mattress on the floor that took up 3/4 of our room. I wont describe the sheets!

We settled in and went touring on the strip. I felt embarassed for all the drunk partygoers, sloshing around and throwing money everwhere. Although the ones we talked to were really nice. The sticky humidity everywhere is so gross, but you get use to it! We are right on the ocean and the breeze is really nice.

We dinned at some food cart with the locals, eating little tortillas stuffed with meat and onions. Really good, but different. I will try to upload pics later.

We finally made it to bed around 1am after drinking a couple of margaritas at a local swing bar (a bar where you sit on a swing and drink). Very cheesy, but cute too!

Good night!

England and Scotland

We touched down at Standstead airport at 4:30pm in London and were pleased to be greeted by Dad and Grandma in the waiting area. They looked worse for wear after 32 hours without quality sleep, but we were excited to set off and explore England. Our rental car was a cute black Mazda seven seater that with luggage was a bit snug. We set our GPS for Northern England and started driving. Hoping to find a hotel along the way, we were unlucky with a couple of them being shut down for repairs and a new festival on that week. We finally settled at the equivalent of the Motel 6 for some real sleep. The beds here are so small and you only get one per room in the Travelodge!

The next day we rose early, had breakfast and headed towards the home of Liz and Stu, et al in the Moors. Using our trusty GPS (which we have nicknamed Candy because of her annoying voice and the pink coloured roads she leads us on) to navigate us should have been a cinch, but actually was not so easy. With 30 million “round-a-bouts” that weren’t really round and unforgiving highway entrances and exits, not to mention the dilemma of driving on the other side of the road, our car ride became tense. We finally made it to the brink of their town and called them to rescue us from any more driving. Dad relinquished the car for awhile while we were chauffeured in style around the area. First stop to pick up Kayte (daughter), then off to the carvery to meet her boyfriend for some much needed lunch. A carvery is a restaurant (or sometimes held in a pub) that serves mainly three roasts, along with unlimited starches and vegetables and accoutrement. SOOO good, we all ate more than was necessary!

We stopped at their house for tea and some visiting, and then took a walk out to the moors, a beautiful area of England. So much countryside, vast empty fields of green with more than a handful of baby sheep (which I love) grazing around. When the time came to say goodbye it was hard to leave after such a short visit. Unfortunately it was nearly dark and we had more than an hour drive to find our destination for the night.

Candy took us to our destination of choice, a York farmhouse B&B. It was crazy trying to get there, driving down curving one-lane dirt farm roads. To top it off it began to snow in the pitch blackness of the starless England night. It was quite the adventure! We’d never been so happy to arrive into our cozy beds. In the morning we enjoyed fresh eggs, bacon, tomatoes and mushrooms from the farm. There were peacocks, dogs, cats, chickens, horses, roosters, etc roaming around the property. It was a delightful place to have stopped for the night. The house was so unusual with it’s high ceilings and ornate furniture. It was over 110 years old! Peacocks, chickens, dogs, cats and horses where all around the house.

15 minutes and we were into the city of York. Having been there before, I led the group around to York Minster, the shambles (a really old street famous for its shops and atmosphere). Everyone had a great time shopping, eating, and visiting the daunting York minster and for those who went: the train museum. A captivating city which happens to be one of the most popular tourist destinations in the UK. After a full day in York we headed north to the city of Newcastle. Getting stuck downtown at our hotel had its appeal since beer and snacks were in close proximity. We all enjoyed a good night’s sleep.

We took the long drive to Perth, Scotland to meet my dad's uncle/ Grandma's brother and his wife. I am amazed at the vast open spaces of farmland on either side of the highways, it is so rural. We enjoyed a lovely evening of games and food. The next morning we set out for the Loch Ness enjoying the beautiful views of the Scottish Countryside. So calm and green, the rolling hills have no end, and you're never far from a castle. Due to an unfortunate accident en route (not us) we were forced to turn around and go to St. Andrews instead. Known as the Golf Mecca, St. Andrews is a college town with cute shops and a huge golf course as well as church ruins. Adorable!

We departed the next morning for the city of Edinburgh. Nina, Joe, Dad and I toured the gigantic Edinburgh Castle. Rooms of historical information about past wars and outfits to match. The castle is still used for military men and is complete with a graveyard for military pets! We really enjoyed the jewels, complete with enormous emeralds, rubies and diamonds! You could spend days inside, exploring all the different rooms, but we unfortunately needed to hit the road on our busy road trip.

We drove the lengthy ride to Liverpool. We stayed at a decent hotel just outside the city centre. The next morning after a traditional English breakfast, we called upon The Beatles Taxi (thanks to a brochure Grandma found) to pick us up. We took a fabulous three hour taxi ride of the Beatles’ old haunts. The school where George and Paul met. The house's of Ringo, Paul, John and George. As well as Penny Lane, Sgt. Pepper's, the Cavern club (where they played over 300 times) and much more. We had a great chat with a man who runs the Church (where John and Paul first met) who discussed his personal account of the infamous night. Apparently all the young men weren't so keen on Paul coming onto their turf stealing their woman with his good looks. But Paul was more interested in John, whom he saw improvising his own lyrics on stage. Without that chance meeting, the Beatles would never have been. Such a great tour, we really enjoyed ourselves. We got dropped off at Matthew Street for some curry (England's national dish). Then we walked down to the harbour and some of us went to the Beatles museum and some of us went to the industrial museum. We reunited for a quick cab ride back to our hotel. Then we drove one hour to Chester to visit our relatives Barbara, Chris and his wife Sara.

We chatted, and got to know each other over a lovely dinner. This was the first time meeting them for Nina, Joe and I, and it had been some years since Grandma or Dad had seen them as well, so there was a lot to catch up on. We even convinced them to make a trip to Vancouver in September for mine and Joe's wedding! We rested in their lovely home for the night. After a few days of getting increasingly sick, Grandma decided to stay and rest at Chris and Sara's while the rest of us trooped on to Bath.

We finally made it to Bath, known in its day as the hot spot for the English to spa and socialize. Today you can still visit the spas and soak in the natural mineral water for a hefty fee. You can also buy the "special" H20 for 50 cents, but it apparently tastes pretty gross. There is lot's to see in this charming city that is lined with beautiful original Georgian housing. We started our day with a free walking tour run by local volunteers who refuse to take tips, and do it simply out of pure enjoyment and pride of their city. Very informative! We got to see where the English elite came to strut around the squares, flirting and gossiping. Of course we spent a little time shopping. . .and Dad visited the Bath Museum. As we have noticed on this trip, there is just not enough time in two weeks to see the UK!!

The following day we went to Glastonburry, the alleged city where Queen Guinevere and King Arthur were buried. There is no actual proof of this claim, and many believe that the church made this up in order to earn money from tourism after a tragic fire. But still the legend lives on. The church was beautiful and quiet and an enjoyable stop. With limited time we reluctantly forged on to see Stonehenge in the pouring rain and wind. Even through the thick rain and wind, it was not difficult to marvel at this mysterious masterpiece. Definitely worth the stop!

We zoomed back in to London, just in time to drop off our rental car for 4pm. After some time in transit, we finally arrived at our somewhat dingy, but incredibly cheap and well located hotel. We wasted no time, and set off for dinner at a local bar. Next we walked over to the Piccadilly Circus, where we bought tickets to see Spamalot (a Monty Python musical) the next night. The following day was spent touring Greenwich Village, where we saw the Greenwich mean line where time is never altered. We all really enjoyed the Royal Observatory museum that explained the history of the time zones, and how longitude and latitude came about.

No time to waste in this massive city, so Dad and Nin quickly headed over to the Tower of London while Joe and I visited the HMS Belfast. Nina and Dad thought the tower was great, with a free tour giving by beefeaters that are in the Queen’s service, giving details of all the beheadings that took place in this once sinister place. Just like the tower in Edinburgh, you could spend days here! The legends were fascinating as were the infamous crown jewels the queen uses on her coronation.

Joe and I enjoyed the massive HMS Belfast with the stories, movies and of course the engine room! We spent close to three hours roaming the ship, sitting in the Captain’s seat, checking out the weaponry, the kitchen, the canteen, etc. The ship is so full of history with all its dealings in WWII. Joe REALLY enjoyed it! Our evening was spent at a local joint enjoying pub fare and world famous beer!

The next morning we joined a free walking tour, after previous experiences with this tour company in other countries. The tours are run by enthusiastic young locals who work on a tips only basis. Our over eager tour leader took us all around the "official London" right up to Westminster, which is actually not considered part of London. Parliament buildings, the financial district, London bridge, Tower of London, Tower bridge and more. Our tour guide explained to us all about the many fires of London. This city doesn't have great luck! We also learned about the wobbly foot bridge that cost over 15 million dollars. Apparently after it was completed the first time it wobbled so much that people were ill. The architect had the audacity to say that the people were walking wrong! 5 million was needed to fix it! Sounds a little like the fast ferries...(B.C. joke)

We finished our tour and a quick lunch at a delicious fresh food chain before rushing over to pick Grandma up from the train station. She was refreshed and happy and we were happy to have her back with us! The underground maze of London's public transportation is as efficient as it is reasonably priced. Since it was a bit of a trek between stations, we opted for the slower but more scenic double decker bus. We all went back to the hotel for some R&R, then off for dinner and a show! Spamalot was really fun and full of good songs and lots of laughs. It starred a famous actor who played the Grandfather on the OC! Our seats left something to be desired, but the theater must have been close to 100 years old and was not ingeniously constructed. It was neat to be part of the whole environment.

The next day while Grandma toured Westminster Abbey, the three of us (Nina having returned to Turkey) went on a walking tour of Westminster. With the changing of the guards at Buckingham Palace to 10 Downey street to Big Ben. Our guide was amazing and we were really happy. We met Grandma at the Piccadilly Circus known for its amazing shopping. We all trekked over to the British Museum for a serious history lesson. Having been there before, Joe and I didn't stay too long before heading off to the picadilly for some shopping!

We met for dinner on our last night in London at The Traveler pub. Good food and drinks, we celebrated in style before heading to bed early. Grandma and Dad left early in the AM while Joe and I enjoyed a more leisurely sleep in till 8am before the long trip home.

We are all now home safe and sound and back to work!!! Hope you enjoyed all our lengthy emails!

Maribor, Slovenia and Zagreb, Croatia

We left the singing city, and took several trains to land us in Maribor, Slovenia. We ended up going the wrong route (according to our ticket) due to the bad advice of a train conductor. Joe looks up and says, “The other part of our train is leaving”. Good thing no one was in the meal car at the time!! We were greeted by Joe's cousin Luchka, whom we stayed with for the week along with her husband Duchan and their two daughters. Right from the start we were made to feel like part of the family. There was always plenty of food to be had (and that you were expected to eat!) and plenty of alcohol. We had no idea that people could drink so much, seriously! The food consisted of cold cuts, untoasted bread, cheese, and pickles. Very fatty, but tasty!

As part of their motorcycle club, they take two trips per year, we were lucky to have arrived on this weekend. We joined the bus tour across the whole of Slovenia (all 350km of it!) to the coast where Italy is only kilometers away. I quite enjoyed the coast of the country that is still fighting for a part of the Adriatic Sea. So beautiful and quiet, plus everything is relatively cheap for our dollar! Although Slovenian’s don’t actually make that much money considering the prices. Many people complain of the negative impact the European Union has brought to their country along with the many positives. It is more of an advantage for a rich country than a poor country to join. Depending on how you look at it.

The day started off at 6:30, with our ticket to get onto the bus was a shot of brandy (no exceptions)! A few minutes later and it was a shot of jagermeister. I think you can imagine how the rest of the day went! In between the Slovenian trade museum, a magnificent cave and a space museum, we were constantly handed beers and made to do shots with the fellow bus goers. Some of us (Nina) were a bit happier about the drinking.

Finally, we stopped for dinner at a very nice wine tasting restaurant. Unfortunately some of the men were so drunk that they were shouting out during the presentation. Pretty funny, although embarrassing since we were sitting at their table!! As dinner progressed, the night got livelier. Two guys had come prepared with an accordion and trumpet, so we danced the polka. One of the guys actually fell asleep for about a half hour, laying his head down on the table! We stumbled aboard the bus, and the show got even better. Joe’s 45 year old cousin finished the evening by dancing and gyrating for all in nothing but his red underwear. That man can move! Needless to say, his wife was at the front of the bus ignoring him! We arrived home about 11:30, having not stopped drinking for the past 17 hours. Although they do not do this every day, we decided that the Slovenians know how to party! What a great way to see the country though, on a bus filled with locals. The landscape was stunning and everything we’d hoped for. Green landscapes filled with red roofed country style houses. So adorable!

The next few days were spent visiting various family members of Joe's. Everyone was so welcoming and generous. We enjoyed great home cooked grub like schnitzel and potatoes, and a superb lunch on top of a mountain at a ski resort. One memory that stands out is visiting with Joe's 80 year old uncle, who insisted on giving us his homemade blueberry schnapps. They also took us bowling, and to the casino! Some people’s English was better than others and we tended to drift towards those we could communicate with!

We made a day trip to Zagreb, Croatia with Joe's cousin Dushan. Because Croatia is not part of the EU, we had to give our passports for inspection, but there was no questioning or anything, they pretty much just let you right through (not like the US/Canada border). Zagreb was a lovely city, although quite big and intimidating compared to adorable Maribor. Being the capital of Croatia, there is a large population and tall buildings in the city. We walked through some lovely blossom trees, around the shops including an outdoor market, and stopped for pivo (beer) on a very young and trendy street lined with outdoor cafes. We learned throughout our trip that Croatians and Slovenians on a whole are not too fond of one another, so they rarely visit each other's countries even though they are so close!

The last day in Maribor we went shopping at the local mall, and walked around downtown (which doesn't take long considering the size!). We all loved how small and inviting the city makes you feel. Perhaps we have a biased opinion since we stayed with such nice hospitable people, but nevertheless I would certainly go back and visit if I had the chance. This was the third Eastern European country Nina and I had visited, and as far as the people go, our favorite. They are so much nicer and not in such a rush as other places. We really enjoyed our stay! Slovenia has renewed our faith in Eastern Europe!

Salzburg, Austria

After two long days later, Joe and I finally found Nina at the airport in Salzburg. We transited to our hostel in the centre of the city to unwind and get settled in. The next day we opted to rise bright and early for the Sound of Music tour. Non-Sound of Music fans need not read the following: Just as promised, we saw the trees the children climbed, the exterior to the house, the infamous gondola where Lizell got her first kiss. The hills they climbed and the church they were married in and the original abbey where Maria thought she would spend the rest of her life. Besides the miserable weather we had, we enjoyed the company of other S of M freaks. The church they were married in was really cool to see. I enjoyed remembering all the favourite parts of the movie in person. Our guide gave us tidbits about the real couple. Now, cover your ears if you're a huge fan, but the hills they climbed at the end of the movie would actually have taken them into Germany. What really happened was that they took a train into Italy, a boat to England and then went on to the USA where they still live! Our tour guide said that he frequently has people crying on the tours, one 19 year old girl said that she has watched the movie twice every day since she was five. Ummm ya....Really quite extensive though. The trivia he told us was very interesting. The story was not at all like the real Vontrapp family, but was fabricated by Hollywood. When Maria complained she was silenced with $900,000!!

We really enjoyed the beautiful mountains in Salzburg. The town was relatively small but so picturesque and enjoyable. We ate dinner in a beer hall dinning on sauerkraut and schnitzel. Although if you're not a Sound of Music fan, you may get a little annoyed with all the movie paraphernalia they have here. They are definitely living high off the hog! Most Austrians apparently have never even seen the hollywood movie, and don't particularly like it if they have. There is a German version that is the original and more accurate to the Vontrapp tale.

We also went to visit the home that Mozart and his family lived in for many years. They have done a great job of restoring the interior to the way it would have been if they had never left. Quite the interesting museum, if you love his music. We were all amazed to listen to his beautiful music and then to be told that he was only eight years old when he composed it!! He was quite a devious sort of fellow and chose to ignore many of his father’s warnings and married a woman who was considered beneath him. Quite the scandal!

We also walked all around the city shopping and discovering more cute buildings and sound of music picture opportunities with our new friend that we met on the tour. A must see if you're a fan! I had wanted to go to Salzburg on my last trip and was delighted to have finally made it!

Brussels, Amsterdam & Cologne

We left Madrid, and flew into Brussels. We arrived in the evening, so were just in time to sample a couple of Belgium’s 450 beers available. There were so many great ones to choose from green, brown, raspberry, chocolate, white, and limbic. We met a Brit at the hostel and took him along for beers. He informed us that Vancouver was his next destination and we eagerly filled him in!

We began our journey in Brussels with a walk to Manekin pis, the official mascot of Belgium. It is a tiny statue of a little boy peeing into a fountain. They are quite proud, it truly reflects this adorable, quirky city! The day was dreary and rainy, so we decided to check out the comic book museum first. What a good choice that was as we became quite acquainted again with the famous Belgian comics like Tintin and "Boule and Bill" and “Smurfs” that we used to read in school. It was really neat seeing how comic strips came to life with many original drafts that were lent to the museum. You can also go on a walking tour around Brussels where comic strips are painted on the side of buildings. Such a fun city! Still being in kid mode, we made our way to the Toy museum not far away. We had lots of fun looking at all the old toys, ships, tanks, tractors, etc before buying a few souvenirs that reminded us of our childhood. We decided that we could not pass through Belgium without trying one of their famous waffles. So, we each got one with whipped cream and raspberry/chocolate sauce. What a treat! We tried to enjoy our waffles, while many gypsy women came and asked for money. There are so many here. None of them seemed to be starving looking, which wasn't surprising since I saw them eating their own waffles!

We walked around one of the most beautiful town squares that I have seen yet. The gothic tower of the town hall is quite captivating. There is a bright charm to the whole area. Brussels if known as the administrative city for all of the EU countries. You can see official looking buildings around. Very impressive! Although we didn't have too much time in Brussels, we concluded that it was a really beautiful, clean city that would be worth coming back for. Our next destination was Amsterdam. We boarded the train, and arrived in the late evening. After checking into our hostel, we immediately ditched our things for a long walk through the red lights. As expected it is had lots of lights, and women of all shapes and sizes in the windows surveying their potential clientele. I felt kind of bad for them as everyone was walking around leering, but I guess they're used to that! All of them are free agents who rent their windows for around 800 euros per shift depending on location. I guess they make a pretty penny!

The next day we decided to join a free walking tour around the city, where the tour guides make a living solely on tips, and are therefore highly motivated. We really lucked out, because our tour guide was excellent. An American who fell in love with Amsterdam, his knowledge of the city was impressive and his manner of speaking was easy to follow. He showed us around the Old Church, the Red light district, the Royal Palace, the widest bridge and narrowest house, and the Jewish Quarter. It was so great going to all these places with an expert guide, who gave us little tidbits that we would not know otherwise. Such as Amsterdam being the only city during the Second World War to stand up against the Nazis. Also the reason the Jewish area is the only modern part of the city because that winter was so cold, that people looted the empty houses for anything to burn. It was so cold that up to 8 families were living together so as not to find anyone frozen to death in their apartment.

We also passed some famous “Coffee shops” in Amsterdam, one famous one in particular that was featured in Ocean’s twelve. He also told us about the pee guards set up in the corner of buildings so that tourists don’t pee in the corner. For those unfortunate enough to try it, they receive a golden shower! The city is rich with culture and color and is more than just a place to get high. Many locals get annoyed with their reputation. We also went through the Anne Frank House (again for me) and enjoyed the well laid out museum and what it represented. Very humbling and informative.

We left Amsterdam that night for the horrid city of Rotterdam that we never officially gave a chance to. It started with the 120 bed dorm and went downhill from there. We felt like we were in a homeless shelter! I am sure the city had some plusses, but we never took the time to find them.


We then took a train into Cologne for some much need R&R. We were so happy to be in a “home” like atmosphere at the apartment of our friend Elisa (who stayed with Nina and I through HC two years ago). We arrived to dinner and drinks late on Friday night. Then we headed out on the town to see what “Carnival week” in Cologne is all about. Similar to mardi-gras, this pre lent event is a huge hit with the whole city! Everyone, young and old, and dogs too are dressed in costume from cross-dressers to Pippi Longstocking. What a superb city! We enjoyed a few drinks at a night club, sans costume, except Joe who was wearing the communist big black hat that I bought for him in Prague. He was a hit. “Ruskie”? everyone kept asking him!

The next few days were spent shopping, walking, enjoying those delicious thick fries with lotsa mayo and ambiance overload. We did get a look of the outside of the infamous Cologne Cathedral. Unfortunately the major tourist attractions were closed, as were many stores due to the carnival. People here really take their partying seriously. One such day we spent three hours watching a parade of tractors and homemade parade vehicles, orchestras, children, all throwing out hordes of goodies. Nina, Joe and I decided to get serious and began aggressively trying to catch the candies. We got quite the stash. Mars bars, toffee, taffy, more chocolate, soap, a big box of chocolates, lollipops. Everyone was so drunk that they were all having a good time. One group of adults had three kegs that their kids and friends were mooching. The atmosphere of camaraderie and excitement filled the streets. We ended our afternoon with some delicious schwarma and clubbing at 3pm in the afternoon. I have never been to a night club when you can see slats of sun peeking through the windows!

All in all we loved the beauty, the booze and the company in Cologne. So much fun, I would definitely return for carnival. Party!!!

The next day Joe, Nina and I split ways with Nina heading back to Turkey to visit a friend and Joe and I heading home. As you read this Nina is enjoying vacationing on the coast of Turkey with Ahmet, while Joe and I are enjoying the ambiance of the fabulous city of Vancouver! We will all be meeting again in the city made famous by The Sound of Music, Salzburg on March 11 to finish our European travels!!

Granada, Mezquita & Madrid, Spain‏

We were sad to leave Marrakesh after an exciting few days, but happy to be back in Spain. Leaving Morocco went pretty smoothly, except the song "I will always love you" by Whitney Houston played repeatedly for about 45 minutes while we waited to check in. We landed in Madrid, and immediately took an overnight bus to Granada, in southern Spain. We found our hostel, and after struggling to speak in broken English and Spanish, we discovered that the hostel manager was fluent in French! So much easier to communicate!

The city, which looked more like a quaint village, was really beautiful. The people were so friendly and sweet, pointing and shouting in Spanish to help us find our way. We couldn´t understand them, but it was helpful. The mountains surrounded the town, and we climbed up to the top to see the Alhambra, a Moorish (Islamic) Palace built in 1338-1390, and which just happens to be another wonder on our list! The grounds were really beautiful. There were many ponds, orange trees, flowers and hedges surrounding the Palace. Inside we viewed room after room lavishly decorated in Islamic art. There were also several towers you could climb for a stunning view of the city. Almost all the houses looked the same, painted in a very bright white. A nice contrast from the lush green trees surrounding them. It was much better than we expected and we were continually overwhelmed with the ornate carvings and art of each room.

We spent the rest of the day walking around the city, enjoying lunch in the Plaza Espagne and watching the city go by. Very peaceful and quiet. We walked through the tourist areas and noticed a large quantity of Moroccan products being sold at a marked up price! We found the cathedral and walked up another mountain to our hostel stopping at a local hangout to watch the sunset.

The next day we took a day trip to Cordoba, to see the Mezquita de Cordoba which to this day still operates as a church AND a mosque. The architecture of the mosque is so unique. Great big arches and pillars of red and white stripes line the ceiling. It is so unique though with the center of the Mosque being run as a Cathedral, dating back to the early 16th century. You can definitely tell which part is which. Many elaborate statues and art adorn the interior. It is the biggest church\mosque that I have ever been in.We spent the rest of the afternoon visiting the tiny Synagogue, the beautiful orange gardens surrounding the Mezquita, the old bridge and the Arab baths. Really interesting descriptions and pictures still remain within the baths. You can almost imagine yourself as being part of the empire. It was really interesting to hear all about the rich and powerful who subsequently also were murdered in the baths for being just that!

We headed back to Granada via bus and roamed around the city eating delicious schwarma for dinner. We somehow ended up in the hippy district with dread locks and drunken looking youths. We spent a quiet evening and then walked 40 minutes, with all of our luggage (like crazy people, which people said we were!) to the train station to catch our overnight bus to Madrid. Nina met a girl from Morocco who she spoke French with into the early hours of the morning. She gave me some insight on how Moroccan's live, and some of the issues that need to be worked on in order to become more modern. She said that the people beg for money only because the tourists actually give it to them! That they figure it's and easy way to make some cash. Unfortunately, the children 10 years and up, have started using that money to get high on gas. She said it was a big problem, and that she would never give them any money.

Once in Madrid we found our beautiful hostel and got ourselves situated. We walked down into the Gothic quarter and enjoyed a lovely day of shopping. Great to be here for the winter sales!! We enjoyed the architecture and the Spanish flair that surrounded the city. Actually it reminded us very much of Vancouver with the long narrow streets and XXX stores. It looked just like Granville Street.

We relaxed in the Plaza de Mayo which had surprisingly beautiful buildings with color nice style. We relaxed in the sun while musicians played and people in costume waited to take your money. We also saw two female police officers on duty with the tightest spandex pants. I can imagine not too many men resisting arrest!! We have really enjoyed the beauty of Spain and will definitely return one day.

Marrakesh, Morocco

We left Rome Ciampino on our cheap flight to Madrid, hoping all would go well. We were not pleased to discover my sleeping bag had fallen off my pack and was MIA. The baggage people were rude and unhelpful, giving unwanted info instead of calling the other airport. I guess that´s what happens for paying $40 for your flight! Needless to say, it has not been returned :( Thankfully it had been used 25+ times on the journey already! We had a five hour layover in Madrid, before flying on so we took the metro into town and dined on paella, a cheeseburger and pizza. There was a sign in the restaurant warning that professional pick pockets worked there!! More than once, we've been told of the number of thieves in this city. Beautiful city though, which we hope to see more of in a few days!

Our flight to Marrakesh, Morocco was enjoyable as was our haggling with the local taxi driver in French. Nina and I are so pleased to be using the language we learned in school. Surprising how it comes in handy. For the life of us we couldn´t find our Riad (concrete house with no roof over the middle) in the dark. We finally allowed the group of young boys that were FOLLOWING us around for twenty minutes to take us there. We gave them a euro and a half for a five minute walk and they complained for more money. Nice introduction! The owner greeted us in true Muslim hospitality with mint tea and a briefing. He took us to our room which we immediately fell in love with. Lavishly decorated in Moroccan style with pictures and lights as well as a window looking inward to the center of the house. There are two rooftop terraces to relax on.

The next day we set out to discover the city after a lovely breakfast of bread and Moroccan pancakes, which aren´t really pancakes at all but pastry cooked with honey. We found the square with all the brightly adorned shops of lights, shoes, purses, scarves, pictures, mirrors, jewelry etc. The shop owners are crazy too, "I give you good price", shouting at you as you pass. "Lovely jublee" and "wow, you lucky, two wives!" One guy even called out to Joe, "Hey Tarzan whatcha looking for?!!!" They all loved his beard and called him Ali Baba. We had a good laugh.

Our wanderings took us to the famous Majorelle gardens just outside the walls of the city center. Beautiful flowers and plants from five continents of the world, mixed with unusual bird sightings and typical Moroccan style buildings in bright blue and yellow. Unbelievably stunning. The rest of the day was spent shopping and enjoying the ambiance of this small yet winding city full of surprises. We found this little square and all around us they were selling baby turtles and chameleons, smaller than your palm. I said we couldn´t take them home and the man insisted I could just take one in a cigarette box onto the plane. Very humane.

A rest landed us into the evening and we set out for dinner in the square. At night they put up lots of tents and lights, and have a sort of tourist smorgasbord of little restaurants. They are very aggressive and shove menus in your face, if you don´t look they call you "s**t tourist," so delightful! We chose number 12 and enjoyed scrumptious kebabs, couscous, salad of many veggies, bread and olives. Most of the restaurants are the same menu and are all enjoyable. Really it's the ambiance that makes it so special.

We rose early for our trip to the Atlas Mountains. It began with a stop to a typical Moroccan home in the "suburbs," where the affluent, house a cow under their home. If you don't you're considered poor. Fresh milk would be great, but oh the stench. We also saw their outdoor shower for washing up in the front yard. It looks like a little brick teepee, and they light a fire underneath for hot water. We have decided against putting one in our front yard! The woman showed us how to properly make mint tea and bread. Very enlightening and beautiful since the house overlooks a local village. We enjoyed fresh honey with our bread (yum), fresh strong olive oil and fresh homemade butter that was grainy. The next step of the way took us on a camel ride of a beautiful hillside. This was Joe´s first time on a camel, but Tarzan was brave!

We made our way further up the mountains until we reached a small village, and from there we hiked up to see the falls. Very beautiful and the hike up was exhilarating. We Canadians, as usual, were in the lead. We had one overweight girl slowing us down and I chose to accompany her back the same way we came so the rest of the group could climb higher and see the whole view of the valley. We dined at an outdoor restaurant with traditional Moroccan food overlooking the mountains. Did I mention it is 26 degrees here?! The day ended us back to the Riad for relaxing and another dinner in the square, compliments of Bonnie, before shopping and bed.

I must describe the atmosphere in the square at night. Very hectic with live shows and people trying to sell you things. Live bands playing Moroccan music. Men luring pythons from inside their jars. Some man threw a monkey on my shoulder and wanted money to take a picture. I wanted the dirty animal off me. They think we want pictures of everything and will PAY for them. Some drunk guy threw a baby kitten on me (that I was looking at) and asked if I wanted a picture. The kitten was crying profusely and the mother was not happy. Very sad the way they treat the animals. Dogs and cats littering the streets looking mangy and sick. I wanted to rescue all of them. Such an interesting culture. The next day we enjoyed sleeping in, sunbathing on the patio and enjoying this wonderful country. We also visited a palace which is no longer inhabited, but is still in very good condition.

We got two of the Riad maids to take us to the local Hammam, a bath where Moroccan´s go to scrub down with black soap, a scrub brush, henna for your hair and a body mud mask. Women and men are separate and most people wear only their underwear. You are placed in a hot steaming room during this procedure and generally women scrub themselves and their children. It is preferable to get a friend to scrub your back. We enjoyed the experience immensely, although it was a bit weird and not altogether clean the way we would have preferred. You can go to a tourist hammam, but they cost three times as much and are not very authentic, but at least you’re worried about catching a disease!

After exploring the city and buying way too many cool things in the souk, it was time to leave. Out of all the third world countries we've been to, this has been the best. The sanitary levels are much higher here, most likely due to the heavy French and Spanish influence. But that said, it is still a third world country and the differences do not go unnoticed. The men still leer and shout things out, and there were MANY people begging for money. Still the ambiance far outweighed any negatives and we would all gladly return.